RZR Headquarters

The Chassis Bones from All Terrain Research sleeve the main frame tubes of the rear of the RZR’s chassis, greatly strengthening a known weak point. We think this is relatively inexpensive insurance if you like to ride your RZR hard. The lower frame tubes are exposed and easy to dent. The ATR Chassis Bones can also be used to get tweaked RZR chassis back to spec. We have managed to straighten back out badly dented lower tubes by heating them up with a torch and hammering the sleeves into place. The Chasssis bones require no welding for install with ATR’s unique machined end piece design. Groves are cut into the end of the machined tube so that when you torque the machine screws in the end of the tube spreads out firmly clamping itself inside the factory frame tube. The Chassis Bones will increase the thickness of the RZR’s chassis tubes by 130%!

Name: Polaris RZR Chassis Bones
Part No: ATR-CHA-1002

Parts Included In Kit:
2 Long Tube Inserts
2 Short Tube Inserts
4 Machined End Caps
4 Stainless Steel Cap Screws
4 O-Rings
2 Self Tapping Screws
1 #7 Drill Bit

Tools Required For Installation:
Hand Tools
Electric or Cordless Drill
T25 Torx® Bit
3/8” Allen® Bit
Torque Wrench
Wheel Bearing Grease

Installation Procedure:

Step 1:
Please verify that all the parts are present. The included parts are shown in the picture below. Read the directions completely before proceeding with the installation. If you have any questions, feel free to give us a call or email.

Step 2:
Remove the lower brake line hold down clamp screws, as shown in the below picture. Use the correct Torx bit for this.

Step 3:
Locate Grease fitting on upper A-arm. You will be center punching a mark vertically inline with the fitting. Make sure you punch in the direction that facilitates getting your drill into that space so you can drill the hole. This is on the chassis tube directly above it as shown in below pictures.

Step 4:
Proceed to drill the hole with the provide # 7 drill bit. Take your time so as not to possibly bend and break the drill bit. This is shown in the picture below.

Step 5:
Take the 4 machined fittings and install the o-rings in the groove located on the fittings. We recommend you apply grease to the o-rings to help them provide a better seal on the chassis. Do this to all 4 fittings. See below picture.

Step 6:
Insert all 4 tubes in the chassis openings. Make sure the end with the threaded insert inside the tube is facing you. The shorter tubes go in the top two chassis holes. Locate the slot in the tube inline with the 2 holes you drilled for the top tubes. The longer tubes go in the bottom two chassis holes. Locate the slot in the tube inline with the 2 holes for the brake hold down clamps. You will be able to spin the tubes to line them up with the holes. You can apply a light coating of grease on the outer surface of the tubes before sliding them in. This will help resist corrosion and aid in spinning them around. The fit may be snug and they may need to be bumped in with a mallet.

Step 7:
Make sure all slots on tubes are located under the holes. If you are having difficulty lining them up, use the hardware to pull the tube out and reinsert it correctly. Now reinsert brake line hold down screws which will prevent the tubes from spinning. Take the self tapping screw and put a dab of grease on the threads. Now thread the screw into the previously drilled holes on the upper two chassis tubes. These screws will cut the new threads and just let them bottom out. They do not have to be super tight, just bottomed out as shown in picture below.

Step 8:
Insert SS cap screw into end caps and insert into the chassis tubes. Start threading cap screw as you push the cap flush. The cap screw needs to be TORQUED TO 20 FT. LBS. If you try and tighten it too tight, you may damage the part. See pictures below.

Step 9:
At this point tighten all four end caps and wipe off excess grease from the end caps. Your finished project should look like the picture below.